2. La Paz to Escondido to La Paz
6 Dec 00 to 13 Dec 00
Ahh, life is good. Just got back from a great week of fun and games with Jose Rockmore
and Herry O'Connell. La Paz to Isla Espiritu Santo, Los Islotes, Isla San Francisco, Cala
San Evaristo, Bahia Agua Verde, Puerto Escondido, Puerto Los Gatos, Isla Partida, and
back to La Paz. Good fishing, tho a little sparse, good fellowship, good grub, good
anchorages, great scenery, fair to great weather, a little rain!, some winds, and lots of
colorful sunsets and sun rises.
Much walking to get the guys fishing licenses and then to the CCC (say say say = local
supermercado) for provisions and then a good meal (they have really good Mexican food
down here), a full nights rest, and then off to Caleta Partida between the 2 islands of
Espiritu Santo and Partida. Caught a Dorado along the way. Dropped the dink into the
water for a little exploring. Didn't discover anything new - only a minor disappointment.
That night I heard noises on the aft deck. I got up to investigate, with thoughts of dingy
robbers, to find the crew bent over the rail with a flashlight looking at a gazillion fish that
were swimming about the boat in the phosphorescent water. They were all agog, like little
kids: "Jeezs Rocky, look at that. The big guys are chasing the little guys."
Next morning, at the prior suggestion of Mike, Leonard Lee's son, a great guy, soon to be
Chief Mate on a big tanker, at such an early age, we stopped at Los Islotes just to the north
of Partida. We anchored close in, really close in, jumped in the dink and circumnavigated
the isla to the accompaniment of hundreds of sea lions, maybe seals. Arfo, arfo (Spanish
for arf) they went. Mike had told us to jump in and swim with the lions, and there were some
snorklers there that were doing just that, but we didn't. They were all around us, frolicking,
wizzing hither and yon, showing off, doing 5g U-turns, diving under the boat and just
enjoying the heck out of our company.
Then on to scope out Isla San Francisco. We buzzed it, didn't stop. Just wanted to check it
out for future reference. It looked good and snug, kinda cute, great beach.
Finally to San Evaristo. Had an ESE wind so I anchored in the SE corner of the cove. The
Super Max didn't set to well, stony bottom?, hard sand?, so I used the Spade and had no
problems. Since I expected to have harder bottoms most of the time, I switched the Spade
to be my primary anchor and moved the Max to the secondary side. Over 1000 hours on
the engine now. Changed the bypass oil filter element. Took an oil sample. Added 1.5
quarts of oil. Added 2 cap fulls of coolant conditioner. And other good stuff. The
anchorage with its long sandy beach and lovely hills in the background was a joy to behold.
The sun set and sun rise were too. Pictures at 11.
Departed Evristo at 0730 and turned north into 24 knots of wind from the NNW... Puerto
Agua Verde was my favorite. A couple of sandy beaches, rugged mountains close in, well
protected from north, west and south winds. Eminently picturesque. We shared the north
cove with a single handed circumnavigator on the first leg of his 5-year journey on his C&C
38. He started with a girlfriend but for some reason she left...
Arrived in Puerto Escondido Sunday morn at 1100 amid a big pod of Pilot whales. A narrow
entrance to a great big bay that is protected from all points of wind, actually all points of
waves since the wind can get to you over a couple of low spots. Everyone was ashore at
the "Escondido Yacht Club" for their weekly Sunday brunch potluck. We went ashore to
dump garbage, 15 pesos, and to do some shopping. Loreto was about a 25$ cab fare away
so the higher prices of the local store seemed more reasonable. The store and
restaurant/bar was about a mile inland. Ate, shopped, returned home. Met some nice
people. Gave them the grand tour of the boat. Had a few glasses of wine. A good time
was had by all. More swimming, saltwater bathing, fresh water rinsing, frozen dinner, VCR.
Next day we turned around and headed back. First stop was Los Gatos. Met a Mexican
fisherman, Manuel, on his panga “Juanita”. For 60 pesos (about 6$) he took Rocky and
Gerry to the rocky point to dive for langosta. Gerry zip, Manuel 3. Back to the boat. More
Tequila. Boiled lobster. White wine. VCR. By the way, Manual has 6 kids all of whom
could benefit from a donation of clothing. Him and his wife too. So if you have any used
clothing you no longer want, bring them along and we will trade them for lobster.
Next was Ensanada Grande on Isla Partida. Parked in the east end of the ensanada in a
light west wind. No problem, it was sure to die down in the evening. But it didn't, it got
stronger. Set an anchor watch - it will get lighter. But it didn't. Got up at about 0500 to the
anchor chain noise that made sleep difficult. I could either install a snubber or, what the
heck, just depart. So we left, in the dark, in 20 knots of wind from the west. I will use a
So after 260 nautical miles of great cruising, your macho cruceros returned back to Marina
De La Paz, guided by the LGB that spent much of its time on the road to La Paz rather than
the channel to La Paz - the charts were done before GPS, in the 1800's I think.
Well OK guys, enough for now. I will write more latter. Till then I remain your humble (ha)
servant (ha, ha),
At San Everisto
Dos de Los Candeleros
Part of a Pod of Pilot Whales