6. Craig to Prince Rupert
3 Aug 02 to 11 Aug 02
Bob and Pam Carlen arrived about 1415 on Saturday with stories of the bears at the Craig
dump and totem poles at Klawock that they saw on the way from the ferry at Hollis. Ruth
Ann’s for dinner.
Bears at dump
We heard that the Haida Indians of Hydaberg were not friendly but we decided to stop there
anyway because we forgot to get a fishing licenses at Craig. Met a tug boat skipper on the
dock and he called around town to see if anyone still sold fishing licenses. No luck. He
said that the Haida do not believe in them and the Fish and Game guys leave them alone
because there are not enough jail cells to hold them all. So off we went to Eek Inlet.
Sea Horse at Hydaberg
Somewhere along the way.
Well, it turns out that Eek Inlet is a traditional summer camp for the Haida and it just so
happened that a Haida clan was in residence when we arrived. Two boats circled us as we
anchored, no one saying a word. Ominous. Oh my god, we might have to lay down tacks
on the deck tonight. But they went back to their camp and left us alone. The clan had one
trawler, 4 skiffs, 2 tents, lots of kids, all swimming on the beach, all making lots of noise,
rifles, but no chanting and no war paint. A couple of men and a woman with 2 skiffs, were
seine fishing near shore. Then Bob the Indian come over in his skiff to visit. We asked him
if he would like to have a beer with us. He said that he was an AA’er and he couldn't afford
any more fines or jail time for drunk and disorderly, but he had a few cousins on the beach
who would like a beer. We gave him 4 beers.
We told him that we stopped off at Hydaberg to get a fishing license. He said that we dident
need a license in his territory because the Fish and Game guys don’t f--- with the Haida
anymore. A cousin got caught catching salmon out of season. They confiscated his boat
and catch and took it back to Hydaberg. That night, 70 cousins came down to the boat and
emptied it of its more than 600 fish. No fish, no evidence, no charges. F&G don’t f--- with
Haida. He said we could put our crab trap anywhere we wanted.
He guessed my age of 70 but he said I was young while his father, who owned the fishing
boat, was 68 and he was old.
Later, after Bob the White Man jumped into the water and cleared kelp from the Naiads, a
couple of cousins, Richard and Larry, came by the boat and said thanks for the beer. We
said they were welcome. Still latter they came back and said that for one more beer they
would give us a salmon. We gave them 2 beers (big sports). That salmon had the reddest
meat that I ever saw. I think he said it was a Sockeye. We staked it, BBQd 3 stakes with
lemon butter and froze the rest. Still later they came back again and wanted to give us
another 2 or 3 fish but we had to decline due to a lack of freezer/refer space.
Bob The White Man and I
Charlie’s Cove – Followed 2 Humpbacks into the chuck. Using radar to get us equidistant
to the shore and the rocks, we quick-dropped the anchor smack in the middle of the cove.
Still ended up close to some rocks in no-wind-flood-tide conditions. But no problem.
Sunny, warm, clear skys, long nap, smoked salmon, wine, good sunset.
Carp Is. Cove – Strong winds were forecast for the next day in Dixon Entrance so we kissed
off Nicholas Bay and Duke I and crossed Dixon Entrance to Carp I in Smeaton Bay in Misty
Fiords National Monument. Were greeted by mama bear and her 2 cubs. Papa stopped by
later. Bob the White Man swam on the Naiads again. Scenic, pleasant.
Next day we toured the fiord in the mist. Beautiful. Went to Punchbowl Cove in Rudyerd
Bay. Waited for a small tour boat to leave to get the one and only mooring ball. Rain, really
misty, many waterfalls.
Next day we toured that fiord, Wilson Arm, a lot more falls, before heading for Foggy Bay.
Fog, rain, 20 to 25 knots of wind, 5 foot beam seas, narrow entrance, low tide, rocks port and
starboard, lots of fishing boats, rocky bottom, parked near the entrance, calm night.
Another windy forecast. We were going to go to Tongas Pass or Dundas I but both were only
a short trip and Dixon Entrance was calm at the time so we decided to just go all the way to
Prince Rupert. So we did. Had to wait for Customs to come to the boat for inspection. We
knew that they would not like the quantity of booze we had so we lightened the load while we
waited. They ended up locking up about 7 bottles of wine. We walked around, looked at
things, noshed on the quarter deck, dined at the Breakers Pub – bouillabaisse. Bob and Pam
ended their very delightful visit by departing in the wee hours of Sun 11 Aug. and left me to
await the next crew arrival on Mon the 12th.
To be continued,
At Prince Rupert